What’s in the Article
After spending a few blissful days in Pai (that somehow turned into over a week), I can confidently say that Pai is so much more. It’s a place that wraps its arms around you and whispers, “Stay a little longer.
When I first heard about Pai in Thailand, I imagined a sleepy little mountain town where time stood still and hammocks swung gently in the breeze. After spending a few blissful days (that somehow turned into over a week), I can confidently say that Pai is so much more. It’s a place that wraps its arms around you and whispers, “Stay a little longer.”
Nestled in the lush mountains of northern Thailand, Pai is about a 3-hour drive from Chiang Mai via a famously winding road. With its laid-back energy, scenic surroundings, and a quirky mix of creatives, expats, and free-spirited travellers, Pai is a place you visit once and never quite forget. Since it is a little off the beaten track you won’t be as bombarded with tourist traps, overwhelmed by the number of other travellers, or find it too difficult to get a bed in a hostel.
This makes it feel like a much more authentic experience of Thailand, and I got to really immerse myself in the culture, making this the ideal place for those looking to avoid the crowds and get a true taste of Thai life.
How to Get to Pai
First up, you’re going to have to get yourself there! Thailand tends to have a pretty decent transport system, and online booking sites such as 12Go Asia, Bookaway, and Baolau make it easy to find out information for trains, busses, ferries, and minivans and to book in advance. There was once a time when I had a ‘wing it’ attitude to travelling, and though that is always an adventure, it just isn’t worth it when I am carrying my work equipment.
I took the minivan from Chiang Mai (150 THAI BAHT), which was convenient but a decent collection of twisty-turny mountain roads! If you’re prone to motion sickness, you’ve been warned. Some adventurous souls ride motorbikes, but if you go that route make sure you’re familiar with driving, confident on mountain roads and wear your damn helmet! I came a cropper off a scooter in Cambodia and I can promise you, it is not what you want to be doing (cue me stressing once more that travel insurance is a literal life-saver for those of us who like to chase a bit of adrenaline!) The journey has over 700 bends, but the jungle scenery makes up for it—and you’ll definitely earn some bragging rights and want to have your cameras at the ready. This has to be one of my favourite journeys in Southeast Asia to date!
Where I Stayed in Pai
I checked into SpicyPai Backpackers, a well-known hostel just a short ride from the town centre and surrounded by the Thai countryside. Perched on a hillside with rustic wooden dorms and hammocks at every turn, it felt more like an adult treehouse than your average hostel. There was a campfire every night, and it didn’t take long to make new friends over shared beers and travel stories, this is absolutely paradise for those who like to socialise as they explore on a budget.
If you’re after something quieter and more up-market, Pai Village Boutique Resort looked absolutely charming, with private wooden cottages and garden views, with a great location right in town. I also heard great things about Tulip Resort Pai for a more peaceful countryside stay, especially if you’re keen on a bit of solitude and morning meditation by the rice fields.
What I Ate (And Loved) in Pai
Food in Pai was a dream. There is a fair choice of vegan or vegan-friendly restaurants in Pai that serve not only local Thai cuisine but also cater to Western tastes too. There’s quite a lot of adaptability in Thai dishes too, just remember to ask that they hold the fish sauce!
Here’s a run-through of my favourite places to eat in Pai:
- Om Garden Cafe: I started most days here—their all-day breakfast was the perfect way to ease into the morning and their rustic garden setting was utterly stunning.
- Chew Xin Jai (Ci Xin Jai): Chew Xin Jai is a 100% vegan restaurant offering a variety of plant-based Thai dishes. They provide a buffet-style selection, allowing you to tuck into multiple dishes at an affordable price. I promise, this is where you’ll find your new favourite Thai dish!
- Earth Tone Cafe: I also became a regular at Earth Tone Cafe, a breezy health-focused spot serving homemade kombucha and vegan burgers. It’s the kind of place where you end up having long chats with like-minded strangers about the best waterfalls and yoga studios in Southeast Asia.
- Charlie and Lek’s: If you’re a fan of Thai food with a twist then this one is for you! Not only is their massaman curry a show-stopper, but the place is an adorable family-run spot that holds cooking classes to give you a bit of Thailand to take back to your own kitchen.
- Cafecito: For Mexican-inspired cuisine with vegan-friendly options, this is a great, trendy spot that makes you feel right at home, with a full tummy and a good book.
- Bom Bowls: Another great breakfast spot, here’s where you’ll come to get fruity smoothie bowls, vegan pancakes, and health-focused dishes. The perfect stop to balance yourself out after a few too many beers by the bonfire the night before!
And of course, the Pai Walking Street Night Market deserves a special mention. Every evening, the main road turns into a foodie paradise. I was genuinely impressed by the variety—mouth-watering traditional pad Thai, Japanese skewers, traditional desserts, Thai tea, and even vegan sushi!
Pro Tip: If you learn how to say “Vegan” or “No Meat” you can easily help vendors to adapt their dishes or guide you to what meets your diet. Picking up just a few words can make your life much easier and your meals much better!
My Favourite Things to Do in Pai
1. Watching the Sunset at Pai Canyon
One of my most memorable moments in Pai was climbing up Pai Canyon at golden hour. The views were breathtaking—red cliffs, distant hills, and that soft, golden glow that outshines any Instagram filter!
Some paths are narrow and steep (proper walking boots, guys!) so this is probably one to skip if you’re afraid of heights. There was something about being up there, barefoot in the dust, with a handful of other sunset-chasers, that will forever be where my mind wanders when I think of Pai.
See! I told you the Pai Canyon hike gets a bit narrow! Be prepared – take a phone with a Thai eSIM, a portable phone charger, and a torch. Make sure you leave well before it gets dark, or you might find yourself having to choose between sleeping under the stars with the mosquitos or risking a broken neck!
2. Soaking at Tha Pai Hot Springs
After a long scooter ride, there’s nothing better than soaking in the steamy waters of the Tha Pai Hot Springs. It’s surrounded by jungle, and early mornings are quiet and peaceful. The water is naturally warm and so soothing it called me back for a second dip!
3. Exploring Tham Lod Cave
I took a day trip to Tham Lod Cave, also often called Nam Lod Cave, with a group from my hostel. The cave system is massive, with bamboo rafts, ancient 1,400-year-old coffins, and fluttering bats. A local guide with a lantern led us deep into the caves on his rickety boat—it was eerie and incredible at the same time. Definitely one of the more mind-blowing adventures I had in northern Thailand, exactly the kind of thing that’s up my street!
4. Climbing to Wat Phra That Mae Yen
Known locally as the Big White Buddha, this hilltop temple offers amazing views over the town. The 350+ steps up to Wat Phra That Mae Yen were a workout, so make sure you take your water bottles! I spent nearly an hour just sitting at the top, enjoying the silence and trying to soak in the view, it’s the kind of place that makes you feel entirely tiny, present, and grounded. There’s so much beauty up there that a few snapshots could never do it justice.
5. Cooling Off at Mor Paeng Waterfall
A fun, local spot for a dip, Mor Paeng Waterfall is exactly what you need on a hot afternoon! I love being in water, so I teamed up with a few folks that I met at SpicyPai hostel, rented some moto scooters, picked up some street food and went for a picnic and an afternoon of splashing around and jumping off the rocks. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the hostel, so it’s the perfect way to kill time and dive into Thailand’s wilderness.
6. Catching Sunrise at Yun Lai Viewpoint
I know that an early start isn’t necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but if you can handle it, the perfect place for a cup of tea at 6 am is watching the sun rise over the rolling fog in Pai Valley from Yun Lai Viewpoint. From the café atop this hill, you’ll get sweeping panoramic views of Thailand’s famous countryside, with the Pai River winding between rice paddies, lychee orchards, soybean fields, and areas of jungle, making this easily the best place in Northern Thailand to watch the sunrise. If you don’t fancy the drive to the top in the dark, or an early alarm isn’t for you, you can even go camping at Sun Lai Viewpoint so that you’re ready to rise with the sun!
7. Trying Circus Arts at Pai Circus School
I didn’t think I’d ever learn to spin fire, but here we are. Granted, I still can’t spin fire, but I gave it my best shot!
The Pai Circus School 
offers lessons in a variety of circus arts, such as slack-lining and fire juggling, holds amazing outdoor yoga classes surrounded by stunning mountains, has an infinity pool with stunning views, and the best bit? You can can stay there! That being said, the hostel at Pai Circus School is popular that you’ll have to book well in advance.
8. Tubing on the Pai River
This one is a pretty well-loved activity to do whilst in Pai. In fact, it would probably be rude not to! A bunch of us headed to Pai River for a bit of an unusual adventure. When we got there, we had obviously chosen a pretty popular time, and there must have been about thirty of us, both travellers and locals, grabbing tubes to float along the river on a unique pub crawl, stopping several times at riverside bars where there were DJs, games, and even volleyball at one place!
Then between each stop, we hopped back on our tubes and floated down the river, winding through the Thai peaceful countryside. It is kind of a surreal combination, but whoever came up with it is a genius. Definitely one of those “this is the life” kind of moments. Bring a waterproof bag if you don’t want to say goodbye to your phone forever!
9. Visit the Bamboo Bridge (Boon Ko Ku So Bridge)
Just outside town is a long bamboo bridge that stretches over rice fields and leads to a quiet temple. It’s a lovely walk, especially around sunset, when the fields turn golden. Bring a sarong or a T-shirt to cover up at the little temple at the end. Boon Ko Ku So Bridge is an iconic part of Pai, a stunning place for an afternoon stroll, and a real moment to absorb the calm of rural Thailand.
10. Take a Cooking Class
On my last day, I signed up for a Thai cooking class at a gorgeous restaurant in town with one of the most patient teachers I’ve ever come across, because trust me, cooking is far from my strongest skill. That being said, but the end of the two-hour lesson, we were (not quite) experts at making some classic Thai dishes, including green curry and papaya salad. I’m definitely going to be adding some traditional Thai meals to my menu when I get home!
Another of the best places in Pai for a cooking class is Savoei Thai Cooking School, where you’ll get to learn how to make four classic dishes using fresh local produce and even get a free cookbook at the end!
⚠️ What Not To Do In Pai ⚠️
Thom’s Pai Elephant Camp
While it’s not the worst elephant camp in the world, and there is some focus on elephant welfare, such as avoiding elephant rides or performing tricks, there are still some ethical concerns about the well-being of elephants in their care.
While the idea of swimming with elephants or feeding them is very tempting, the elephants here are also confined to small spaces and with the use of chains, so their ethical practices are still far from ideal for the animals. Some travellers have reported that the elephants at Thom’s seem reasonably well-cared for, but others noticed behaviour that suggests boredom or stress.
Truly ethical elephant camps don’t focus on tourist interactions and prioritise the elephant’s needs over the tourist’s entertainment. Advocating for the end of animal exploitation in tourism is paramount to being an ethical traveller, so if you’d really like to see elephants in Thailand, a better option would be Elephant Nature Park in Chaing Mai, where you can just observe elephants being elephants — no riding, no shows, and interactions like bathing are on the elephant’s terms, when they want to, rather than being forced for tourists’ enjoyment.
Travel Tips for Pai
- ATMs & Cash: There are several ATMs in Pai, but bring some cash just in case. Small shops and stalls don’t always take cards.
- Scooter Rental: It’s the best way to get around. Most places rent for around 150–200 THB/day. However, you’ll need an international driver’s permit if you don’t want to get into trouble with the police!
- Weather: It can get surprisingly chilly at night, especially in the dry season. Pack a jumper!
Final Thoughts
Pai has a way of pulling you in. Maybe it’s the friendly faces, the mountain air, or the endless motorbike adventures—but something about this little town makes it really hard to leave. I planned for four nights and somehow stayed for eight. If you’re anything like me, you’ll understand why as soon as you get there. There’s so much to do, so much nature to get lost in, and so many friends to be made, both with our transient travelling community and the welcoming Thai locals.
Pack light, stay open, and don’t be surprised if Pai ends up being one of your favourite destinations in Thailand. It has certainly become one of mine.
I got my trip, now get yours!
Anna x
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