What’s in The article:
There’s something maddeningly seductive about the South of France. Maybe it’s the lavender fields that make you feel like you’ve slipped into a Monet painting. Or perhaps it’s the way the wine always tastes better when sipped under a parasol in a sun-drenched square.
Either way, I found myself booking a spontaneous week-long escape with two main goals: drink too much rosé and embody an effortlessly chic French woman (I failed gloriously at the second one).
Aix-en-Provence
Avignon
I based myself in two towns just an hour apart: Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. One’s all fountains and Cézanne charm, the other’s got medieval swagger and a bridge that famously goes nowhere. They’re close enough to avoid the travel faff but different enough to keep things interesting.
In all fairness, the South of France has an insane amount to offer, so choosing where to visit was probably the hardest part of the whole trip, which is why I figured a little insight and inspiration wouldn’t go amiss for those of you ready for your summer holidays!
Why the south of France?
Whether you’re on your grand tour of Europe or based in the UK and looking for a faff-free holiday, in the South of France, I can hands-down guarantee that it will take less than five minutes before you know that you made the right choice. While it’s close enough to the UK and well-connected enough with the rest of Europe to avoid long travel times, you’ll get all the sun and exploration vibes to let you know you’re out of the country.
Getting to Aix-en-Provence
- Flights to Marseille Provence will land you 25km from Aix-en-Province and there’s a shuttle bus every half an hour that will get you to Aix-en-Provence about 30 minutes later. Find Flights
- TGV Train (High-speed) from Paris departs from Paris Gare de Lyon directly to Aix‑en‑Provence, taking about 3 hours. There’s also a decent network of regular trains to Aix‑en‑Provence train station. From there, regular shuttle buses take 15 minutes to get you to the town. Find Tickets
- By car, you can drive to Aix‑en‑Provence, located at junctions of A7, A8 (“La Provençale”) and A51 autoroutes.
- Buses from Marseille St‑Charles to Aix take approximately 30 minutes and are particularly affordable. Find Tickets
The city itself has a great public transport network, but it is ideal for walking or cycling, with many of the central streets entirely pedestrianised, so exploring on foot or two wheels is the way to go!
First Thoughts of Aix-en-Provence
The best town to start your South of France itinerary, for obvious reasons!
I arrived in Aix (pronounced “ex”) on a golden Tuesday afternoon, and within minutes of wandering the winding streets, I was half-convinced I’d entered some sort of Francophile dream.
It’s got exactly that sandstone buildings and winding streets vibe you want from a holiday in the south of France. 12/10 on first impressions (bonus points added for the smell of fresh croissants wafting from every boulangerie on every street!)
I stayed in a charming little hotel near Place des Quatre Dauphins, an old fountain-splashed square tucked into the Mazarin quarter. There’s an abundance of really bougie places dotted around the town, but I wanted to keep things low-key. Let’s face it, I wasn’t planning on spending much time in my room!
Day 1: Aix-en-Provence Markets, Cours Mirabeau, and Café Culture
Aix is famous for its markets, and I immediately understood why. Place Richelme buzzes every morning with locals buying figs, cheeses, herbs, and somehow chic vegetables. This open-air market oozes the quintessential French small-town life you see in romantic movies.
There were literally folks riding home with a couple of fresh baguettes in the basket on their bike, which I had totally imagined was only a cinematic cliché. No guys, they actually do that.
After that, I wandered down the Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s leafy main boulevard where chic cafés spill out onto terraces. I apologise in advance for the sheer amount I’ll use the word “chic” in this article, but it’s pretty difficult to find a more fitting word for Aix-en-Provence!
I sat outside Les Deux Garçons, ordered an espresso, and finished off a little work, because travel doesn’t fund itself you know! Luckily, for a town in the South of France, Aix is pretty affordable, which is handy since people-watching is much more appealing than copywriting!
Later that afternoon, I took a detour through the Mazarin Quarter, a grid of stately mansions and serene streets that feel worlds away from the tourist trail. Since Aix is so well-predestrianised, exploring the town independently is a breeze, and I love to make the most of that freedom whilst getting a decent tan on my shoulders!
I wrapped up the day with an impromptu aperitif at a wine bar tucked into an alleyway, where the tables were spilling with locally sourced olives, almonds, and glasses of rosé that made me swear off Tesco screw-top bottles for life. It only took one day for me to realise that a trip to the South of France is possibly one of the best decisions I’ve ever made.
Day 2: Cézanne Trail and Mont Sainte-Victoire Views
The next day, I embarked on a guided tour of the Cézanne Trail—which sounds intense but is just a very lovely walk to all the places where artist Paul Cézanne hung out, painted masterpieces, and presumably got sunburned on more than one occasion. His studio, Atelier de Cézanne, is just on the edge of town and still feels like an iconic piece of French art history.
From there, I hiked uphill to Terrain des Peintres, a viewpoint where Cézanne used to paint Mont Sainte-Victoire. The view? A sprawling landscape that meets the stunning mountain on the horizon—not one to overlook! The hike is only 1km and pretty easygoing, so it’s more like a stunning wander through the French countryside than an intense thigh-burning battle.
To round off my day of peaceful moseying, I stopped off at La Cabane en Ville, a cosy, fully plant-based restaurant beloved for its home‑style Provençal dishes. You’ll never forgive yourself if you skip their vegan crème brûlée.
Day 3: Picnics, Vineyards, and Secret Fountains in Aix-en-Provence
By day three, I was fully in holiday mode. I’d adopted a leisurely 10 am wake-up, café breakfast, and a daily food intake that would alarm my GP.
I grabbed picnic supplies (just wine and pastries, actually) and took a bus on Line 25 from Gare Routière d’Aix‑en‑Provence to a shady vineyard near Château de la Gaude. Here, I laid out under a tree, book in hand, and committed to doing absolutely nothing useful. Sometimes travel is as much about doing nothing as it is about doing everything!
From Aix-en-Provence: Half-day Wine Tour Cezanne Countryside
Experience the exquisite wines of Provence on a scenic countryside tour through vineyards, at the foot of Sainte-Victoire Mountain. Discover grape varieties and local wines at two distinct wineries. Check Availability
That evening, I wandered through Aix’s lesser-known corners, discovering hidden fountains like Fontaine Moussue and Fontaine des Neuf-Canons. Aix has over 100 fountains, each one more photogenic than the last – maybe even make a bingo list to tick off as you travel! Don’t forget to take a few spare euros and make a wish.
To be honest, I did regret that I had only booked three days in Aix-en-Province. The gentle atmosphere and lazy sunny days had me well and truly melted into a new sense of chill that I wasn’t quite ready to let go of, so I left with a promise to come back sometime. This little town in the South of France is the perfect place for a digital nomad to slip into a quintessential French lifestyle, if that’s what you’re looking for.
Midweek Move: Travel from Aix-en-Provence to Avignon by Train
On day four, I hopped on a train to Avignon, just 40 minutes away. If you’re planning a South of France itinerary without a car, this is a super easy way to get from A to B. The easiest option is to get the Direct High-Speed (TGV) which will take you straight to Avignon in about 20 minutes and cost about €10 (cheaper if you book earlier though!)
Alternatively, you can get the regular train to Marseille Saint‑Charles and transfer to Avignon. It’ll take more like 1.5 hours but will only cost a few euros.
Avignon is known for its medieval walls, gothic architecture, and dramatic skyline. I checked into a quirky little boutique hotel inside the city walls. My room had exposed stone walls, creaky floors, and a view of a courtyard wrapped in fairy lights. The “I’m a 14th-century witch” fantasy is strong here, with the castle-like walls offering the perfect place to go for a wander and imagine ages past. There’s some great guided tours of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I decided to freestyle it and explore at my own place.
I usually quite like an aimless wander when I first arrive somewhere new, soaking up the authentic atmosphere and hoping to stumble across some hidden gems.
Day 4 Evening: Vegan Wine and Theatre Vibes
I had heard about Avignon’s famous open-air theatre, Opéra Grand d’Avignon (Théâtre municipal), built in 1847 and not looking crazy dissimilar to a mini coliseum! There are quite regular performances at Opéra Grand d’Avignon, such as opera, theatre, and concerts, and I was lucky enough to catch a ballet dance performance which was out of this world and made me realise how very ungraceful I am!
After the show, my wander took me to a quirky little wine bar near the city centre called Hygge. It’s not like your average, swanky, pretentious wine bars. Nope, Hygge has its own eclectic sense of style that I can only describe as “This is cute, stick it in the bar!” and as a result, there’s a really welcoming, homey feel to the place that drew me in. To top it off, their vegan wine options and hearty food menu made it clear to me that this would be where I spend the rest of my evening!
Day 5: Palais des Papes and Pont d’Avignon
The Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) is Avignon’s headline act. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in the South of France, and maybe even much of Europe.
If you love a good castle, this one looks straight off a move set so it’ll be right up your street! Next stop: Pont Saint-Bénézet, also known as the Bridge of Avignon. Only part of the bridge remains today, but the views over the Rhône River are stunning.
That evening, I climbed to Rocher des Doms, a tranquil park offering panoramic views over the city and beyond. Rocher des Doms is a historic rocky outcrop and landscaped public garden perched above Avignon, and a must-see spot to watch the sunset.
By this point, I had been blessed with a true South of France tan, since Avignon witnesses over 2,700 hours of sunshine per year. Still, admittedly I may have underestimated just how much the sun in this part of the South of France loves its job. After a day of exploring cobbled streets and getting swept up in the Avignon experience, I ended up with a pretty hefty sunburn. Rookie mistake!
Day 6: Avignon Markets, Art Galleries, and of course, Wine Bars
In the morning, I visited Les Halles d’Avignon, a covered market where the truffle tapenade flirts harder than most men on Tinder and the air smells like a seductive mix of herbs, cheese, and French smugness. If you’re staying in a self-catering room, this is where you need to get your food from!
Later, I explored Collection Lambert, a contemporary art museum with works by Basquiat and Cy Twombly. It’s easily one of the best things to do in Avignon if you’re an art lover. There are a few other smaller art galleries run in Avignon that are run independently by local people, ranging in all sorts of styles and mediums, so if you’re just looking to see something different, discover your new favourite artist, or treat yourself to a bit of art to fill that blank space on your bedroom wall, then you’ll be easily pleased!
In the afternoon, I joined a small-group wine-tasting experience at a historic cellar near Rue des Teinturiers, where a local sommelier walked us through five regional wines paired with Provençal snacks. One of the best ways to learn about the Rhône Valley’s delicious secrets.
As it turns out, wine tasting isn’t strictly my thing—I’d rather just drink it than talk about it—but I can see why it’s such a popular activity, especially in the South of France. There are plenty of similar tours and experiences in Avignon, but make sure you book in advance to make sure you get a slot!
Day 7: Day Trip to Pont du Gard, Gordes, and Roussillon
For my final day in Provence, I rented a car to explore beyond the city (it’s no secret that I’m a fan of a good old-fashioned road trip!) First stop: Pont du Gard, a perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct that rises out of the landscape like it’s waiting for the Hogwarts Express.
Then I rented a car and drove a hefty 100km through the Luberon Valley, stopping in Gordes and Roussillon, two of the prettiest villages in the South of France. Gordes clings dramatically to a cliffside, while Roussillon is straight out of a painter’s palette with its red ochre cliffs and colourful shutters. Wandering around Roussillon kind of feels like someone applied a sepia tone in a movie to prove that the scene isn’t set somewhere boring.
I had lunch in a little café called Café des Couleurs in Roussillon with views that could have kept me there for hours, followed by a stop at the nearby lavender fields (obligatory photo taken, of course), and rounded off by an accidental nap under a cypress tree. Hey, relaxing can be hard work!
I capped off the day with a final glass of rosé in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a riverside town known for its antiques and waterways. The town was just waking up for its evening promenade, and I lingered as long as I could before reluctantly driving back. It was maybe a little too much to cram into one day, but for the sake of renting a car in Avignon and seeing three such unique towns in the South of France, it was well worth the effort.
Other Things To Do In Avignon
- Rue des Teinturiers: Stroll down a quaint road lined by ancient waterwheels and inhabited by hundreds of frogs!
- Musée Louis Vouland: A decorative arts museum that will transport you back to the 18th century with rooms full of regal antique furniture.
- Rocher des Doms Tour Train: The best way to reach the viewpoint is on a comedic train that feels like a kids’ ride with a tour guide.
- Festival d’Avignon: If you’re visiting during the festival (usually in July), experience the unique atmosphere and performances that take place throughout the city.
- Wine Safari: A wine tasting that goes one step further and tours the villages and vineyards that the wine originates from.
Final Thoughts
I’d say a big draw of Aix-en-Provence and Avignon is the endless summer climate, closely followed by the slow-paced life that makes relaxation just happen whether you want it to or not. That being said, if you’re not particularly a fan of wine or into super-old buildings, this might not be the place for you. I definitely needed a detox after a week in the South of France!
Anyway, if Aix-en-Provence and Avignon sound like your jam, hopefully this itinerary will save you the hassle of planning your holiday!
I got my trip, now get yours!
Anna x
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